Cinque Terre, Italy
We woke up in the morning and headed over to the bus station. Britt wasn't feeling great but she powered through it and we set off an one of the most amazing trips we would take during our honeymoon. I was pretty apprehensive about going with a tour company but because of its remote location, a tour was the most convenient way to get there. We went with a tour company by the name of Walkabout Tours. At the train station, a woman named Lavi, holding a Walkabout Tours sign, directed us to head over towards our bus and we would shortly be on our way.
We started off out of Florence, through the small winding streets and out to the scenic highway up the coast of Northwest Italy. Throughout the ride, we were told stories about the areas we were passing through and they even pointed out the massive quarry when Michelangelo sourced the marble for the David and many of his other sculptures. Also, while we were driving up to La Spezia, the two tour guides, Freddy and Lavi, went around and got to know everyone on the bus personally. Freddy grew up in America and worked as a mortgage broker. He decided to change the scenery around him and traveled around the world. Freddy was our tour guide and without him, we would've seen half of what we were able to in The Cinque Terre.
We started off in the second town, counting from the South, Manarola. When we got up into the town, Britt and I were in awe. I have never seen a setting so breathtaking in my entire life. When you begin to visualize these amazing pastel colors of the houses and shops against the vibrant greens along the cliff side, among the backdrop of the sea below, it can take some time for your mind to process the landscape. It leaves you with your mouth agape and all you can hear among the group is mystified wows and awes. I wish I could describe better the sight that morning but it is something you truely have to experience for yourself.
These quaint little towns have but one or two streets down the center and little alleyways in and out of shops, churches, and houses. Like a microcosm of Italian cities and countrysides in a tiny footprint, built into a cliff. After getting a chance to walk through some of the town and take in a small view into the people's lives who live there, we were told that we were walking up to the next town. We climbed "400" stairs up and up into the next town. I took this time to actually count the number because no one seemed very sure of the 400 figure. I counted 390 steps and another truth seeker counted 391 up to the next town. Our group consisted of families and couples young and old. There was some huffing and puffing but everyone was able to make it up the approach to the third town, Corniglia. There was no lack of motivation because, at the top, we were promised a wonderful view and food in our bellies.
During the drive to this magnificent place, we were asked about what we would be interested in eating at lunch that day. I cannot tell you how at ease I felt after Freddy talked with me about my meal. As some of you know, saying that I do not have a large pallet is a gross understatement. Needless to say, I was worried about what was going to happen at lunch that day. Freddy asked me what I could eat and got together a grouping of food that I would eat. I had fries as a starter and a plate of pasta with butter as my main meal. I do not eat much pasta but it was at least a familiar taste to me and, when I ate it, it was incredible. Even though I just had it in butter, it was nothing like the box of pasta you find in your local Hannaford's. Britt experienced a much more elaborate selection of dishes. She had a seafood plate consisting of an octopus salad, sardines, cod cake, and cuttlefish. As her main course, she had pasta with tomato sauce, all of which was dairy free. We dined with an amazing couple, Jane and Scott. They were from Australia and were on a trip around Europe as well. We found out at lunch that Scott was a mechanical engineer just like me.
After an incredible lunch we got to hike about two miles through the amazing network of tiered farm land cut into the side of a huge cliff. We hiked along with Freddy, who was incredibly knowledgeable. He pointed out how many different food and drink sources were being grown right before our eyes on this unlikely terrain. We saw agave, aloe, tomatoes, olives, hops, rosemary, asparagus, wild fennel, grapes, lemons, blackberries, and, as Freddy pointed out, spiders with bodies as big as a quarter. Britt and I were astonished at the amount of land that was farmed and the way in which they harvested the crops. The only thing that was more impressive than the rows of crops climbing up the cliff was the network of trolley track throughout the rows of green. We were told that the people who live here, go out on these trolleys and pick all of the produce during the harvest seasons. The only sad thing about this amazing place is that the art of farming and harvesting the land is being lost with the two eldest generations. When you did see people working along the cliffs, there were no younger adults or teenagers in sight. I hope one day, when Britt and I do have children, we will be able to share this amazing place with them.Back to the fun stuff.
As we turned the corner on the trail, the view opened out into another stunning setting. The fourth land, Vernazza, was position right on the water. Lavi and Freddy told us about a great gelato place that used all natural ingredients by the water. It was a white sign that just said "Gelato". I had a lemon gelato and Britt had a refreshing lemon ice drink. We grabbed our treats and headed down to sit and watch the all of the people swimming and playing in the water. The water was starting to get really choppy and all of a sudden a wave came crashing over the wall and soaked a few unlucky people sitting on the other side. We finished up our sweets and headed down the street to some shops. We went into a little bar and tried the local Cinque Terre wine. The wine was crisp with a lot of citrus notes up front and it finished more dry than sweet. It was not overly sweet and it was a great way to top off our time in the fourth town.
From here, we were told to meet up at the train station for the first of three train rides. When The Cinque Terre became a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the area was able to receive funding for a train system, extra areas for bathrooms, and was able to help support and protect the area from the impact of tourism for generations. The trains are well used throughout the towns and this was immediately evident. Once again, Lavi and Freddy were very helpful, showing us where to stand so as not to get run over by the boarding and deboarding of the trains. The train ride was cramped and we were told to watch out for the pickpockets. As we got off the train, there were large groups of people headed toward the town. There were two kids running through the crowd and, just then, Freddy yelled that there were pickpockets. We learned that the most likely pickpockets in Europe are children and young women. Luckily, no one lost anything and we were able to continue to enjoy our day.
We got to the fifth and northernmost town of The Cinque Terre, Monterosso al Mare. This is the only resort town within the five lands. There was a large beach, cars, and a LOT more people. While it wasn't our favorite town of the five, we did get to share a couple glasses of wine while looking out at the beach. The wine again was a Cinque Terre made wine. According to Agriliguria Net, The Cinque Terre wine is "White wine Obtained from grapes Bosco (minimum 40%) Albarola, Vermentino (alone or separately up to a max. Of 40%) and other white grape varietals Ligurian (up to a max. Of 20%)." After our wine, we met up again with Jane and Scott and talked with them about what they thought so far of the trip.
We were told a time to get back on the train and we headed south to the southernmost town, Riomaggiore. There was a breathtaking view around the marina but it was a little too crowded for our liking so we went back to check out the town. We were told to check out the fresh, fried fish from a specific place in Riomaggiore. Britt said that the fried fish here was nothing like the fried fish in America. Aside from the fact that the fish were caught just off the coast where we stood, it was a thin bread and not at all greasy other than the natural oils from the fish. In the bucket of fish, she had sardines, calamari, onion rings, and other smaller fish. We met up again here with Jane and Scott. We both grabbed a small bottles of wine, the fish, and headed over to find a place to sit and enjoy our refreshments. We still had some time left before we had to leave so we went to a bar and split a bottle of wine with our newly made friends from Australia. We drank and talked while we enjoyed our wine, headed back to the train, and went to La Spezia. We got back on the bus and headed back down to Florence. On the way back to our home for the night, we were blessed with an incredible sunset and some time to nap before we finished our trip to the most beautiful place we have ever been.
After an incredible lunch we got to hike about two miles through the amazing network of tiered farm land cut into the side of a huge cliff. We hiked along with Freddy, who was incredibly knowledgeable. He pointed out how many different food and drink sources were being grown right before our eyes on this unlikely terrain. We saw agave, aloe, tomatoes, olives, hops, rosemary, asparagus, wild fennel, grapes, lemons, blackberries, and, as Freddy pointed out, spiders with bodies as big as a quarter. Britt and I were astonished at the amount of land that was farmed and the way in which they harvested the crops. The only thing that was more impressive than the rows of crops climbing up the cliff was the network of trolley track throughout the rows of green. We were told that the people who live here, go out on these trolleys and pick all of the produce during the harvest seasons. The only sad thing about this amazing place is that the art of farming and harvesting the land is being lost with the two eldest generations. When you did see people working along the cliffs, there were no younger adults or teenagers in sight. I hope one day, when Britt and I do have children, we will be able to share this amazing place with them.Back to the fun stuff.
From here, we were told to meet up at the train station for the first of three train rides. When The Cinque Terre became a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the area was able to receive funding for a train system, extra areas for bathrooms, and was able to help support and protect the area from the impact of tourism for generations. The trains are well used throughout the towns and this was immediately evident. Once again, Lavi and Freddy were very helpful, showing us where to stand so as not to get run over by the boarding and deboarding of the trains. The train ride was cramped and we were told to watch out for the pickpockets. As we got off the train, there were large groups of people headed toward the town. There were two kids running through the crowd and, just then, Freddy yelled that there were pickpockets. We learned that the most likely pickpockets in Europe are children and young women. Luckily, no one lost anything and we were able to continue to enjoy our day.
We got to the fifth and northernmost town of The Cinque Terre, Monterosso al Mare. This is the only resort town within the five lands. There was a large beach, cars, and a LOT more people. While it wasn't our favorite town of the five, we did get to share a couple glasses of wine while looking out at the beach. The wine again was a Cinque Terre made wine. According to Agriliguria Net, The Cinque Terre wine is "White wine Obtained from grapes Bosco (minimum 40%) Albarola, Vermentino (alone or separately up to a max. Of 40%) and other white grape varietals Ligurian (up to a max. Of 20%)." After our wine, we met up again with Jane and Scott and talked with them about what they thought so far of the trip.
We were told a time to get back on the train and we headed south to the southernmost town, Riomaggiore. There was a breathtaking view around the marina but it was a little too crowded for our liking so we went back to check out the town. We were told to check out the fresh, fried fish from a specific place in Riomaggiore. Britt said that the fried fish here was nothing like the fried fish in America. Aside from the fact that the fish were caught just off the coast where we stood, it was a thin bread and not at all greasy other than the natural oils from the fish. In the bucket of fish, she had sardines, calamari, onion rings, and other smaller fish. We met up again here with Jane and Scott. We both grabbed a small bottles of wine, the fish, and headed over to find a place to sit and enjoy our refreshments. We still had some time left before we had to leave so we went to a bar and split a bottle of wine with our newly made friends from Australia. We drank and talked while we enjoyed our wine, headed back to the train, and went to La Spezia. We got back on the bus and headed back down to Florence. On the way back to our home for the night, we were blessed with an incredible sunset and some time to nap before we finished our trip to the most beautiful place we have ever been.
I can't stress enough that if you ever find yourself in the northwest of Italy, please, please find a way to make it to The Cinque Terre.
Any tips on getting to cinque terre from Florence or Pisa? Going this july, and would love to spend a night or two there!
ReplyDeleteWe booked with Walkabout tours through viator I think. Walkabout tours were incredible and we're very helpful with where to go and what to do while there. If you'd like to get there on your own, there are trains from Pisa to La Spezia and then to the different towns in the Cinque Terre
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